DONOSTIA DELIGHTS

Apart from Connie and Francisco giving us myriad tips (all excellent) on the area, AndyBoy and Michelle Pitman also made a strong recommendation based on their SS experience, and so we head to the shore of Playa de La Concha and the amazing La Perla Thalassotherapy Centre. The beachfront spa takes you back to the days of 'la belle epoque' when sea baths were a pleasure for French holidaymakers, and we spend a luxuriant 2 hours in the numerous pools, saunas and relaxation rooms; it is, by any measure, outstanding, and fully deserving of its reputation as Europe's finest spa. Travel Tip: anybody visiting San Sebastian and not experiencing the wonders of La Perla is derelict in their touristic duties!

La Perla from the beachfront

Travel Tip 2: One of the real bonuses of San Sebastian is that once you park your car, you don't need it again unless leaving town. Everything is within walking distance. Check the car parks, some of hem offer big discounts for multiple days).

We mosey back towards our beach via Parte Vieja (the old town), which of course means more pintxos! We try out Bar Martinez and, surprise surprise, it's fabulous; one could get used to this lifestyle.

We're in Rocinante and on an excursion to Hondarribia, located at the mouth of the Rio Bidasoa (the other side is France. The coffee quest continues in the picturesque plaza mayor and then we drive up to the top of the Sierra de Guadalupe, providing spectacular views north to France and southward towards Donostia.

France in the distance

South from Guadalupe

North rom the same spot

Our plan is to head to head to another riverside hamlet called Pasajes De San Pedro and catch the ferry over to the village on the other side, Pasajes De San Juan. All goes to plan and we arrive at the recommended eatery (Casa Camara) only to find it closed - dang ! Never mind, there are other bistros there and we eat heartily. The Basque country has a history of proud independence (it most certainly is very different to one's general perceptions of Spain) and secession talk is never far away (ironic that we should arrive in the UK just as the tartan hordes mull over a similar decision), San Juan is awash in in the Basque flag.

Pasajes de San Juan

Casa Camara was closed - dang!

Just south of Donostia on the coastline is the fishing village of Getaria with its unusual land mass known as 'The Mouse'. Of course, we nip in for some local delicacies at Taberna Giroa and the experience of being charged in the old fashioned way - by the number of toothpicks left on your plate. Back to home base for a swim and then dinner.

The Mouse

That'll be 10 euro por favor

For our final night we forego the pintxos bars - sacrilege I know, but it can be very tiring for little 'uns having to stand all the time and get jostled by grown ups who aren't particularly interested in etiquette - and instead dine at Juanito Kojua, a restaurant that has specialised in traditional Basque cooking for over 60 years. It's the perfect way to finish off our San Sebastian gastronomical adventure.

Before leaving on our journey west, we drive to the western head of La Concha. Here is where we find Escultura Peine Del Viento (The Wind Comb), an extraordinary sculpture by the renowned San Sebastian artist Eduardo Chillida. The 3 pieces, each weighing 13 tonnes, are amazing, and although we didn't see the full effect of the work (it needs to be stormy so that sea spray escapes through breather holes providing the 'combing' effect), it is a 'must see' when visiting the town.

As we depart San Sebastian we happily reflect upon a fabulous time spent with friends, partaking of one of the world's great gastronomic experiences, and seeing breathtaking natural beauty.

Dulcinea and Connie

Buzzy gives Jaime a lift

Mejores Amigos

How good is that!

 From here we point Rocinante west. Our ultimate destination is Santiago de Compostela. This route is one of the world's great walking pilgrimages, known variously as 'The Walk', 'The Way Of St James', and 'El Camino de Santiago', frequented by walkers as a retreat for spiritual growth. It's close to 1,000 km long and takes weeks - and several pairs of shoes - to complete. Exactly why anybody would be crazy enough to do this is beyond me, but sitting in the comfort of Rocinante is an entirely different matter, and so we plot our course for Cantabria, Asturias and Galicia, affectionately now referred to as 'The Drive'........giddyup Rocinante.

Turn around when possible - west is the other way